Once Upon A Time In Moscow
on March 31st, 2009
My latest journey took me to Moscow; & although I did, subconsciously, relive the negative feelings that everyone in the US felt about the country back in the late 70′s & 80′s (I am old to remember, although young to make it to any meaningful sense of it) I was elated for the opportunity to explore & soak in the culture – of both the people & the country as a whole.
rarely there’s a time when a particular location grabs my attention & makes me sit up & take notice. A subtle mixture of the past meeting the present; while displaying it in a way that captures both the thrill & the suspense of what is awaiting you around the each & every corner.
Moscow the capital & the largest city of the Russian Federation, is a city in which one comes face to face with all that is great & frustrating in Russia. The generous people of the city are as evident as the extreme tension of a city coming to terms with the un-assuredness of social change. More so in Moscow, then anywhere else in a country of 6.592 million square miles can one feel the Soviet of the past colliding with the capitalistic future.
My first encounter with Russia was the Metro – yes the Metro. I often enjoy public transportation, as it is a great way to truly look at a society in a whole; at there purest. I was on my way to Red Square, & I got a small taste of what I was in for by taking this mode of travel. Not only are the Metro stations clean; being from Boston I can certainly appreciate that, but elegant designs of lavish use of marble, mosaics & sculptures were at every stop. I asked another traveler who has been to Moscow a few times, & we filled me in that these stations were built during the rule of Stalin; & where to display the best of Russian architect. Metro stations in Moscow such as Mayakovskaya Station , the Novokusnetskaya Station , the Novoslobodskaya Station & the Kropotkinskaya Station are a must & are almost entirely clear of tourists.
Red Square is an enormous 400 by 150 meter & it does epitomize everything that Moscow is & once was. Established in the 15th Century under the rule of Ivan III, Trinity Square as it was originally called was later named ‘Krasnaya Ploschad. The word ‘Krasnaya’ originally meaning beautiful in old Russian became red in more modern times. Some common assumptions are that the ‘Red’ in Red Square refers to Communism blood spill.
On its one sides stand the Kremlin, GUM Department Stores (which is becoming more akin to a Macy’s), State Historical Museum & St. Basil’s Cathedral which stands in the spot where the Trinity Cathedral – for which the Square was once named after, stood. Here you will also find Lenin’s tomb here, a gleaming granite mausoleum to the revered founder of Socialism. A hasty side note, however, that when Lenin’s tomb is open, most of Red Square is blocked off.
Over the years, Red Square has acted like Moscow’s equivalent to Rome’s Forum – a meeting place for the people, called Muscovites, for celebrating religious festivals, public gatherings or Tsars’ addresses; & even watching executions – various political dissidents were publically butchered here by Ivan the Terrible & Peter the Great.
I didn’t need to pass up the opportunity to visit Lenin’s Mausoleum. Its not often where you get a chance to see such an influential historical figure in the flesh – of work some cynics do claim that the embalmed body is in fact a wax work.
If there was one architectural symbol of Russia, & there are plenty of, it would have to be St. Basil’s Cathedral. The domes, cupolas, arches, towers & spires inspire everyone that sees it. A magnificent mix of Western & Eastern architecture, ‘The Cathedral of St. Basil the Blessed’ is the most recognizable structure in Russia.
Taking up the entire East side of Red Square is where you can do most if not all of your shopping. Looking more like a palace then a shopping centre, GUM (pronounced goom) is the largest in Russia. I’m not much of a shopper, but as you enter into this complex, you are hit with its elegantly-decorated interior. A fountain is centrally located while two parallel arcades invite you to explore some designer shopping – & the glass ceiling is also an attention grabber.
The State Historical Museum was next. Constructed in the late 19th century, with its red brick walls & ornate cornices, the State Historical Museum is a great addition to Moscow’s Red Square. All manner of treasures lie awaiting for that prospective explorer. You are led back through Russian history, with artifacts dating back to its Neanderthal beginnings. You can also check out a 5,000 year old long boat – & of work there’s plenty of glitz & glamour of the 19th century Ruski royals & aristocrats. The whole experience here takes about 1-2 hours, but if you need to know Russia from beginning up through we Russian Revolution, it sure is well worth it – & if you’re hungry, one Red Square Restaurant is housed here, where you can eat like a Tsar!
I saved one of the most anticipated stops on my journey for last; a chance to visit the stool of the Russian government, the Kremlin. Being of Russia’s top tourist attraction is no lie, this place was filled with others that wanted to set foot inside where a quantity of the most infamous leaders once held court. Ivan the Great, Ivan the Terrible, Stalin, Gorbachuev all held sway here – & we cast their marks in history inside of these walls.
A trip to Moscow was something that was truly one of those ‘once in a lifetime’ experiences that you speak about with your friends. Although, with the surfacing of some great airfare deals, that once in a lifetime opportunity may be coming around a few more times.
Beginning back in the 1150s, the Kremlin began in a much smaller scale then it is now. As Moscow grew in wealth & power, so then did the modifications. Ivan the Great was responsible for the most ambitious modifications; & italian architects were brought in to build new walls & a number of cathedrals – including the Cathedral of the Assumption during the period of 1475-1516. The architectural styles are a timeline between the 15th & 20th centuries.
